Learn about tide, wind, swell, rip currents in your surf lessons

This is what we refer to as “out the back” which means sitting out past the breaking wave zone where you can catch your breath and wait for the right wave. Although it takes some practice using either duck diving a short board or Eskimo rolling a long board once you are out there it is a whole different world. Learning about the rhythm of the ocean is one of the fundamental processes in learning to surf. On a surf retreat you are taught all the theory of ocean processes and how such things as tide, wind, swell, rip currents and sand bank formation affect the waves. However there is still only one way to learn to get in sync with the ocean and that is to spend time out there, often in a state of meditation, watching and FEELING the waves forming. This is when you truly start to appreciate the essence of surfing and the healing power of the oceans energy